"Tourista" hits, two last temples, a swim & the hobos return to Sunway Hotel

Roberta was felled by tourista overnight, not sure if it was the chicken wing at lunch or the spring rolls.  She stayed in bed with the blanket over her head.  I soldiered on with a more mild case.  We first visited Bantay Srei, a small but magnificent temple about 45 minutes from town with most magnificent carvings that are in remarkable shape.  This temple is from around 900AD.  The trip through the country side was also fabulous, very lush, able to see how some of the villagers live in houses on stilts to keep the water away, many children everywhere, some schools.  Education is not mandatory in Cambodia, only about 60% of the population finish the 6th grade.  Learning English is a big issue.  We talked a lot about the ways in which we could be helpful, perhaps another Global Volunteers site?????

Onwards after a quick rain storm to Ta Prohm.  The pictures tell the tale of this wonderful temple, it's the one with the trees growing out of the top, and with roots growing down.  It is gradually being restored but hopefully they will  keep the trees.  It gives a wonderful feel for what it may have been like when the temples were first discovered deep in the forests. The carvings here are more simple, but also in remarkable shape.

Back to the hotel for a swim, shower, packing up and a late lunch before heading for the airport.  Roberta , now rehydrated, and even with lipstick on, looked and felt much better.  By some miracle I was able to squeeze all our treasures into our bags(well....ok....so we have one more shopping bag to carry on than we had planned!).  Goodbyes shared with the hotel staff and our local guide and driver.  On arrival in Hanoi we had an enthusiastic guide for our transfer to the hotel who gave us a very succinct overview of the whole history of Hanoi! We shared a tearful goodbye with Terry & Roberta: how could this long anticipated adventure be drawing to a close?    We arrived back at the Sunway Hotel(remember we dropped our bags here just last week) in a comfortable van and well dressed: our reception quite different than last week.  A drink, a snack, some more organizing and we are ready for the long and tedious journey home.

I know that Phil, Roberta & Terry all have stories and memories from the last 3 weeks.  For me, I will always remember the warm smiles of the Vietnamese, the crowded streets, the honking of horns, the Old Quarter(our neighborhood for 2 weeks), the sights and sounds of markets, people, produce and history all around us.  The warmth, curiosity, smiles and humor of our students will not be forgotten.  In Vietnam we learned about war, recovery, and forgiveness.  In Cambodia the lessons of ancient civilization and the enduring art of stone work and carvings will be engraved in my memory for a lifetime.

I know this isn't a book, but still seems in order at the end of this once in a lifetime trip to say a few thank yous(trite I suppose, but sincerely appreciated), so here goes:
Global Volunteers(and especially Francoise) for laying the foundation and providing the opportunity to provide service

The medical center team at Wind Crest for their enthusiastic support during the planning stages, and for taking care of all of our patients while I was gone and for keeping the residents well informed about our progress

Terry & Roberta  for being our willing partners in service and travel, for their strength of mind & character, their incredible sense of right & wrong, their willingness to go beyond the usual, and of course to Roberta for her willingness to shop anywhere, anytime

My family at home(and especially Alice) for keeping us well connected and informed of everything that was going on , and Martine for keeping the Genesee house visited and looked after

Evan & Shari  our two incredible kids, who are thriving in their own lives, very independent, and made it possible for us to leave the country without any worries(well....ok....we did manage to worry a little bit)

Phil  my partner in life, service, and travel, always willing to venture into new places and new ideas, always teaching as he goes

That's all for now.  Pictures to follow when we get home,

Barbara

Flooded streets, a boat trip, 3 more temples & our last market excursion

Oh boy, headed out today for our excursion on Tonle Sap lake to see the fishing villages.  The streets in Siem Reap and surroundings are flooded today.  our driver is an expert though  and gets us through about 6-12 inches of water.  The people here seem to take things in stride:  going about their business pretty much as usual.  Kids enjoying the change:  using inner tubes to float down the street and jumping off bridges to enjoy the water.  As we arrived at the boat dock, our pictures were taken by a local kid.  The boat driver appeared to be all of about 15 years old, he headed off confidently onto the lake.  We saw the local floating villages, including the homes, grocery store and even two schools.  Mothers in small canoes came close, using their children to pose for pictures and receive money.  This aspect was heart wrenching as we saw the hard lives and overwhelming poverty.  Most of these Cambodians and Vietnamese spend their lives in these villages, never really managing to leave.  As we exited the dock, a surprise awaited:  our pictures on souvenir plates(of course for purchase).  In light of the lack of resources and poverty, we were quite shocked by this creative and high tech end to our trip.

After negotiating the flooded streets again, we had a tour of the local Artisans school where local people are trained in the many arts include wood carving, stone carving and silk making.  You can guess where the tour ends, and where we spent quite a bit of time picking out some beautiful items to accompany us on the trip home.

Lunch found us in a lovely spot by the river with orchids and plants all over.  The local people are welcoming and friendly, the food was simple and hearty.

Off to 3 temples in the Roluos Group.  These were built about 900 AD, and although much smaller and less elegant that Angor Wat & Angor Thom, still overwhelming to see.  The brick work and carvings have been well preserved.  Many steps lead us to the top of Bakong, the King's temple, affording a marvelous view of the surroundings. 

Sweaty & hot, we returned to town, where Roberta convinced me to do one last market excursion.  Terry & Phil headed for the pool!  The old market in Siem Reap was filled with goods: some things we hadn't encoutnered before: silver and Buddhas galore.  Roberta can really shop, her endurance is better than mine.  After a wonderful and productive time, we headed back to the hotel, picked up "the boys" and had a lovely dinner at the Khmer Kitchen: curry, dumplings, soup, etc.

Off to bed now, hard to believe that our last day is tomorrow before we start the long trek home,

Barbara

Two temple complexes, very hot, a cool swim & traditional dancing

Slept late: 8:00am wake up for a civilized 9am start today.  We headed through Siem Reap City to our first temple complex:  Angor Thom, this contains an unfinished temple( Bayon) and royal city with a dramatic entrance and gate as well as a very large temple complex.  Climbing to the top we found a beautiful view, and a small Buddha shrine tended by the nuns.The weather was hot & humid again, like doing the tour in a hot yoga room  Exiting the temple complex, we were surrounded by vendors and children(some things are the same world wide) selling all manner of items:  postcards, scarves, bracelets, books etc.  . They followed us around, until they realized we weren't buying.  Although I did succomb and buy some bracelets from some very  insistent and eager children. 

Lunch was in a blissfully shaded small restaurant across from Angor Wat, our guide suggested we "rest and recover" before heading off again.  As we approached the entrance of the Angor Wat complex we were all stunned by the beauty, the size, and the details of this place that we had heard so much about.  The complex is surrounded by a lovely moat with water lillies.  The initial structure has many nooks and crannies to explore with extensive carvings throughout.  Little did we know what would come next!  As we arrived at the "main" temple, we were overwhelmed by the mammoth size and the beautiful carvings, especially of the Apsara women(the royal dancers).  These adorn almost all the walls and columns.  The bas relief carvings tell many tales of the Cambodian people including the stories about heaven, our time on earth and hell(and who goes where).  Exploring the temple involved a lot of steep steps, and many ups and downs.  As we approached the last challenge, Terry realized his knee wasn't going to hold up, he found a spot in the shade to wait for us. Roberta, Phil, the guide and I headed up the last very steep set of stairs to the top of Angor Wat.  The view was magnificent, and the last floor of the temple stunning.  Carvings, nooks & crannies, and a sleeping Buddha were all explored.  The condition of this ancient temple is remarkable.  47 steep steps later we found ourselves back down.  Very hot.  Very sweaty, a trip well worth the effort and poorly described until you see the pictures.

The cool sea water pool at the hotel beckoned:  after a swim and poolside mojito, a nap was in order.  Now just back from a buffet dinner during which we were entertained by traditional Cambodian dancers.  A little ice cream, and now it's time for bed.

Hoping my feet hold up for tomorrow,

Barbara

Early am floating market, oldest temple in Saigon, trip to Siem Reap, ready for bed

Wow, another amazing day.  Early wake up for boat trip up the river to the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta.  Boats everywhere selling fruits and vegetables of all sizes and shapes.  These families live on their boats, making their living from the goods they receive to sell.  Old wooden boats, but atop each one is a television antenna.  Quite a contrast.  We made a quick stop at the "wet" market: this is an amazing place, rows and rows of vendors with live fish, crabs, dead fish, rat meat,snails, catfish , fruits and vegies.  No other Westerners anywhere in sight.  this is the day to market for people in the Mekong Delta.

A quick trip back to the Victoria, where I had a quick swim in the pool while Teery & Roberta checked their email.  Lunchtime brought us to the "Mekong Rest Stop", not like any rest stop you've ever seen on a US highway.  This would had lovely covered areas for dining, beautiful flowers, delicious food(especially the nexcessary iced Vietnamese coffee) and a gift shop filled with beautiful handicrafts.  Then back in the van for the trip back to Saigon, and since we were lucky enough to have no traffice, we had a chance to take a quick tour through China Town and visit the oldest temple in Saigon:  a Chinese temple devoted to the Goddess of the sea.

Roberta & I had to have last look at all the shops at the Saigon airport before our flight departed for Siem Reap.  We were greeted warmly by our guide here as well as the hotel staff of this small boutique hotel.  Big day tomorrow with a trip to Angkor Wat in the morning, and another group of temples in the afternoon.  What a change it is to be in this city, which has apparently rapidly grown over the fast few years.  Apparently there was little here until recently, now Siem Reap boasts a beautiful modern airport, 103 hotels, and many modern conveniences.  What a change from the hustle bustle, noise nad flavor of the Old Quarter in Hanoi,

Time for some sleep, more tomorrow,

Barbara

Goodbye Saigon, Mekong Delta, a boat, a horse cart, and a sampan

Wow, what a day, filled with the sights and sounds of the Mekong Delta.  Left Saigon early, rain continued to pour down.  The streets are flooded, the motorbikes bravely plow ahead, even though they are getting soaked.  Arrived at the boat dock and adorned in brightly colored plastic ponchos headed for our boat.  Had a lovely cruise down the river, our first stop at a fruit grove for a nosh, with accompanient by traditional music.  A short walk in the rain and mud and we jumped on the horse drawn cart for a quick trot down the island.  Next conveyance was a woman rowed sampan through the small canal with dense green foliage.  Rain continued to pour down.  Back to our boat to shed our ponchos, and on to the coconut candy factory(also a sip of snake or rice wine).

After a bad traffice game, and a game of scrabble, finally arrived at our luscious hotel in Can Tho.  This place reminds one of times of old.  Beautifully furnished in a tropical style, right on the river, a lovely pool , fitness center, and yes, another spa.  Time for a massage, manicure & pedicure for Roberta, a swim for Phil, and a pedicure for Barbara.  Terry took a nap.

Dinner by the river with a delightful breeze, and a mosquitoe lit "coil" to keep the bugs away. We bid the attentive staff good night, looking forward to another day on the river tomorrow, which will be our last full day in Vietnam, now that's hard to believe,

Tired and full of images from today,

Barbara

Black Lady Mountain, Cao Dai Temple, & Dinner with a friend

After a stunning and delicious early breakfast buffet we headed out of town.  Leaving Saigon and the "suburbs" behind, we drove through small villages on bumpy roads, past the Cu Chi Tunnels to Black Lady Mtn.  Up the cable car we headed, amidst lush green foliage.  At the top was a beautiful pagoda and temple, with throngs of people offering rice, fruit and money while they prayed.  The temple and pagoda are cared for by a group of monks who live on the top.  A truly amazing experience, and we were the only Westerners on the cable car and at the temple. 

Leaving Black Lady behind, we headed to the Cao Dai headquarters and temple.  Phil will have to explain this unique religion to those who are interested, but basically it developed here sometime in the 1920s, has about 2 million followers in South Vietnam, and a mammoth, beautiful temple with a set of rituals that are unique.  The pictures(when we get them uploaded) will do a much better job at describing this.  The observant attend a "service", where they sit on the floor, grouped by their "rank" in the church, mostly dressed in traditional white garb, and chant and pray.  We were honored to be allowed to observe part of the service.  Wait till you see the pictures.....

In a torrential rain, (while Terry napped & Phil had a massage), Roberta and I headed out to the big Saigon market.  A maze of hundreds of stalls, and many people(buyers and sellers).  Bargains galore, but almost impossible to figure out what to buy and how much to pay for it.  A unique mixture of Vietnamese items(silk, lacquerware, etc) and "knock offs" of famous brand perfume, handbags, shoes and jewelry.  After an hour we were exhausted, the rain pouring down, so we treated ourselves to a cab back to the hotel, where we had an amusing time trying to figure out how much to pay our driver.

After a quick rest & shower, we met my friend from Wind Crest, Lorrie Lutz, for dinner.  Amazingly enough we had realized some months ago that we would be here at the same time.  She is teaching at a conference this week quite nearby.  We had a lovely time catching up, eating Vietnamese BBQ, and exchanging tales about our travels and adventures so far. Chocolate fondue was a perfect ending to a long and enchanting day.

On to the Mekong Delta tomorrow,

Still raining, streets flooding,

Barbara

Saigon, Working out, and a swim

Uneventful early am departure from Hanoi to Saigon.  We said a fond farewell to our home away from home, the Hoa Binh Palace, and the lovely staff there.  We were greeted in Saigon by our guide for the next 4 days, Son, who helped us get settled and have a tour of the city.  So different from Hanoi:  wide streets, less traffic, more modern buildings and lots of construction.  we stopped for Pho for lunch at the place where Bill Clinton ate when he was here some years ago. Then off to see the grand Presidential Palace, the sight of the surrender of Saigon in the 1975.  Still in use for formal governmental and other private functions.  Seeing the basement bunker and military equipment was a grim reminder of what those years were like.

Then on to a sobering and sad visit to the War Remnants museum.  Here we viewed photographs of many aspects of both the French and American wars here in Vietnam, seeing a side of the war that most of us had only read about in the past.  The photographs of the aftermath of the war, compared with what many of these cities and villages look like now were most striking.  The replicas of the Tiger Cages, used on prisoners, were terrifying.

The Duxton hotel, our home for just 2 nights, is quite luxurious and welcoming.  Phil & I enjoyed a lovely workout and then a quick swim before drinks with Terry & Roberta, and then on to dinner at an extraordinary Vietnamese restaurant with very tradtional foods.  Our waiter was very patient as he instructed us in the art of  the "hot pot", and how to make a perfect rice paper roll with the ingredients.  A rainy walk back to the hotel was quite lovely as it has cooled things off considerably.  Tomorrow we head out of town to Black Lady Mountain and a special church and temple.

Barbara